This is not the perfect term for a procedure that reverses sun damage, rejuvenates the skin, tightens it, closes the pores, reduces pigmentation, reduces fine lines, improves the texture and turns back the clock in terms of skin ageing. Nevertheless we are stuck with it. Most peels these days do not cause peeling, redness, open skin, pain and weeping. Historically, yes, they did, but not any more. Even the classic TCA peel can be performed in stages to avoid the peeling stage; moreover some of our peels are so gentle that you may carry them out at home. The glycolic acid 10% mask or 25% for the body are very simple home care treatments.

You should think of peeling as a repair and rejuvenation procedure and consider it as one of the first steps towards improving your skin. Peeling reverses sun damage, stimulates new collagen synthesis and reduces pigmented lesions. The type of peeling depends on your type of skin and your lifestyle.

Peeling is also an excellent treatment for active acne and the remains of acne – scars and pigmentation. Sometimes peeling needs to be combined with other treatments and approaches in order to completely eradicate the acne. 

Peeling can be considered according to the depth in the skin that the product reaches. Peeling will achieve results to the level that the product penetrates. Some lines and scars may be deeper than the depth of penetration and these will not respond fully to the treatment. However, other treatments may well address these remaining problems so a combination of treatments is frequently the best solution. These days we understand that there is no single quick fix, no magic bullet, and that in order to achieve the best, longest-lasting results we need to mix and match from our treatment palette.

Gentle peeling is a simple procedure and often the first treatment that people choose. It is a simple procedure with no down-time. Gentle peeling is recommended for early signs of sun damage and ageing of the skin – open pores, fine lines, dryness and poor texture. Gentle peeling will improve the texture and luminescence of the skin as well as reducing fine lines, increasing hydration and decreasing open pores.

We normally use glycolic acid for our gentle peels; 10, 25, 30, 50 or 70% depending on the skin type and the desired results. Acne responds better to the equally mild milk peel, based on salicylic acid and lactic acid. Because the peeling is so mild the treatments need to be repeated every two weeks for a total of six treatments. We prefer to combine glycolic acid peeling with the vitamin facial and red light in our combination facial in order to achieve better results with less treatment and in less time.

TCA peeling is normally considered a medium-depth peel simply because the product penetrates deeper. The deeper the product penetrates then the better the results will be. Deeper lines, sun damage, acne scarring and some pigmented lesions will be more suitably treated by going deeper in the skin. Peeling is a bit like paint stripping and the more layers that we apply, the deeper the product penetrates.

Thus a single layer of TCA will not penetrate far and will achieve the same results as two or three glycolic acid peels. No peeling, perhaps a little dryness for a day, but better, quicker results.

Three separate treatments of single layer TCA will achieve far better results than a full course of glycolic acid in half the time.

By applying the full two or three layers of the TCA peel a medium depth peel is performed. The skin will become a bit red for half an hour, gradually settling and becoming dry and tight. Over the next five days the top layers of skin go quite brown and flake or peel off. The skin will be affected at much deeper levels and therefore the results will be far better than a single layer or any number of glycolic acid peels. However you must remember that for five days the face will be brown, dry and flaky.

A medium depth peel is recommended for sun damage, open pores, poor texture and for generally improving and rejuvenating the skin in white Caucasian individuals.

Because this peel is stronger than a glycolic peel, it is not suitable for darker more sensitive skin types, or anybody prone to rebound hyperpigmentation.

For those who would like the results of a TCA peel but cannot tolerate dry, flaky skin, the peel may be performed in three sessions, one layer being applied at each time. The treatments should be performed every two weeks.

We always use the red light to promote healing and reduce the recovery time after a TCA peel.

Although the results are seen almost immediately after the peeling phase, the very best results will be achieved after six months.

Not all skin that has become pigmented as a result of sun damage, mechanical trauma, hormones or ageing is suitable for a TCA peel. Darker skin types tend to respond to trauma by pigmenting even more and so TCA or any aggressive peeling is not recommended. However there is a solution – the ICP peel.

This is a new concept in rejuvenation for all skin types. Initially created for sensitive skin and pigmentation, this skin treatment gives medium-depth results over a short period of time but without the risks of classical medium-depth peeling.

A yellow mask containing the anti-ageing product retinoic acid and several depigmenting agents is applied to the skin. The mask is not strong, aggressive or painful but needs to be kept on the skin for up to 8 hours. You go home with the yellow mask applied to the face. During this time the products act on the skin. After the prescribed time, the mask is washed off.

The following day the skin will be red (sometimes beetroot red), then pink, pale pink and then on day 4 returning to normal. During this time the skin will be dry and flaky. This can be covered up with make up but many clients prefer to take time off. From day 5 the skin looks better and the results become apparent. These peak at day 28. In general, each peel sequence will achieve an improvement of between 50% - 70%.